The 12th. The 12th? Ahhhhh, yes, the 12th arrondissement. And what do people think of when they think of the 12th arrondissement? Gare de Lyon? The concert and sports venue Palais Omnisports Paris Bercy and the adjoining park? Or perhaps the Promenade Plantée, stretching from Bastille to the Bois de Vincennes? Possibly, but as every well-heeled Parisian will tell you, there are gems to be found in each arrondissement that are often lesser known, the 12th is no exception.
Many people are aware of the quite well regarded Marché d’Aligre, having been active and situated in the 12th since the 18th century. But what people are perhaps less aware of is the Commune d’Aligre, the citizenry in the neighborhood, and the sense of community that exists by and for the locals in the vicinity.
Created just 3 years ago, the Café Associatif La Commune is a community center of sorts that acts as a locale for sewing and writing workshops, bridge tournaments, a center for storytelling to children, and even massage therapy. It is also the neighborhood meeting point and practice center for La Bandaligre, the local band of the quartier. The newly refurbished Maison des Ensembles, adjacent to the café, has also just been completed, built to house associations and ateliers for the neighborhood.
Outfitted with a well-equipped kitchen, the center is also open to those interested in cooking – just be prepared to cook for 25 – 55 people, as true to it’s function, the Commune exists to serve the community.One regular to the experience of cooking for the masses is Giovanni Martinovic, artist, carpenter and, to many, culinary magician.
A neighborhood resident for the past 17 years, Mr. Martinovic has developed a sound following, packing Café La Commune the last Saturday of each month, cooking for locals eager to taste his next culinary delight. We took a seat at the dining table this April and caught up with him as he prepared a meal for a packed house.
Giovanni Martinovic preparing dinner at the Commune on April 24th.
Les Flâneurs: So, Giovanni, you’ve been living in the neighborhood for 17 years. I suppose it has changed; a bit at least. What can you tell us?
Giovanni Martinovic: Yes, I’ve seen the area change quite a lot. New bars and restaurants are perhaps the most visible change, and the people who have moved in as well. They’re younger and looking for an alternative to the neighborhoods in central Paris, and the 12th has a lot of great amenities. Many come particularly for the lively nightlife, but there are also all the conveniences to be found here during the day.
LF: The Marché Aligre is probably part of the draw, I would suspect?
GM: The market, yes, and also the brocante that happens everyday. It’s one of the reasons why I like the neighborhood so much, certainly. I enjoy cooking, so being able to have fresh, seasonal produce, specialty meats, cheeses, and my preferred wine shop just steps away from my house is a great benefit.
LF: And so what has brought you to the kitchen at the Commune every month? It’s always quite a lot of work – especially when the venue is full!
GM: Well, having lived in the area, I know most of the people in the neighborhood, so it gives me a chance to see them, give back to the neighborhood and experiment in the kitchen.
LF: We’ve noticed you’re a popular draw here. How would you define your menus and where do you take your inspiration from?
GM: Well, I was born and raised in a town called Zadar on the Dalmatian coast in Croatia. My upbringing was in an Italo-Croat house, where both ethnicities take their cuisine very seriously – so I guess that’s where my influence initially sprang from.
My mother had a certain flair in the kitchen, so I learned Dalmatian specialties early on. But for these past years, I’ve been influenced by my neighborhood and the various products I can find here, as well as French techniques in cooking, of course. It’s a sort of experimental fusion and the menus I put together reflect that.
I don’t really use strict recipes, but depending on what I can find that is fresh and interesting, I leave the meals up to invention, and then integrate techniques that I’m interested in using in the kitchen.
LF: Are there any ties between your work in carpentry and your culinary skills? Is there a similar approach to working wood to working food and flavor?
GM: No. But I have used nature as a guide in the past. For example, fish seemed to go well with honey – because bears enjoy eating both! It is perhaps an unorthodox approach, but I draw from these sorts of ideas, as well.
I also believe that part of the goodness of the food is the occasion in which it is consumed, which makes Café La Commune a great place to prepare my menus. The guests for dinner often change, but it is always a warm, sharing atmosphere.
Kitchen prep for the evening’s entrée.
LF: Can you give us any ideas of what will be included on future menus?
GM: The menus are planned almost spontaneously, though there will be a meal for 400 in September that will accompany the Cinémaligre, the annual cinema festival that happens in the neighborhood. Maybe a goulash? A paella? You’ll have to show up to know!
The menus are indeed something to be seen. A proven alchemist in the kitchen, Mr. Martinovic is known for creating exotic and unlikely combinations, both intriguing and delectable to the palette. Past menus have included such marvels as cubed watermelon with alfalfa, ginger, and squid ink, chocolate brownies sprinkled with basil, honey, and pralines, chilled fettuccini with pine nuts and octopus.
This past dinner’s dishes bore no exception to innovation, featuring a filet mignon garnished with orange zest boiled in green tea, and a dessert of minced strawberries in white chocolate chantilly topped with pop rocks and thyme.
Entrée: Aligre Wrap. Layers of pita filled with sautéed vegetables, cow milk cheese, mushrooms, tuna, harisa and lettuce, served with mixed greens in yogurt and chervil dressing. (Above)
Plat: Filet mignon de porc en BT (bas température) with green tea orange zest garnish, accompanied by courgette and root vegetables, steamed and seasoned. (Below)
Dessert:
Poelée de frais au thym avec chantilly au chocolat blanc.
Note – Les Flâneurs was unable to obtain an image of the dessert because as soon as it was served, the writer lost all control and devoured it immediately.
Mr. Martinovic serves dinner at the Commune the last Saturday of every month at 8pm. The next feast will be held at the end of May, featuring three gourmet courses for a maximum of 10 euro(entrée, plat and dessert), with all preparation done at the benevolence of the chef for the evening. Open to the public.
Café La Commune
3, rue d’Aligre, 75012 Paris
Membership – €5 (suggested donation)
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Mr. Martinovic’s work in carpentry can be seen at: http://www.morningfox.com
